Gone To Wander

Once upon a time, 7 months ago or so...

2009-03-04T02:47:00.000-08:00

In a summer morning, just when the clock pointed at my preferred number. I took my backpack and locked my house. I went on a short walk, counting my steps and whispering to my soul until I reached the vehicle. 3 seats in the front and a house in the back with a smooth large bed, a tall clothes case, a washbasin, a mini fridge and a stove.

Bibi; the wheeled house which sometimes seems to have a soul. Perhaps, because of our profound love for it or because of the harmony in which Aurel communicates with it.

Driving our wheeled-house, we headed north to a large gathering of blue houses: Chechaouen.

Our familiarity with the place and our love to nature took us up to the mountains where we had a luxurious starry night. "Cinq étoiles sous les étoiles"

Desiring for some sunbathing on the beach, we headed north, somewhere between Tatouan and Ceuta. All we could see was an impenetrable wall of buildings between the road and the sea while we didn't stop repeating " We want a deserted beach!"

Either luck was not our friend this time or it wasn't the right place to find to a deserted beach. Hazardously, we ended up parking in front a beautiful coastal house and auspiciously, we were invited for a drink then for a short sojourn.

The Mediterranean sunrise from Josefine's house.

The view from the bathroom.

The stairs from the house leading to the water.

Our huge swimming pool where we enjoyed swimming, diving and sunbathing.

Welcoming a new day.

The small garden at the entrance of the house where we usually had breakfast.

Smelling the flowers or trying to steal food?

So, I went to check which smelled stronger; the food or the flowers!

Happy, were we at Josefine's house

Josefine was happy to see us but surprised to be in front of the camera.

Enjoying a meal with the presence of Josefine.

While the cat seemed to be enjoying his nap after a beer.

El Negrito, he used to sleep next me but his name changed to "El kakato" after he came stinking strongly one of those nights. Though, I loved him

El Negrita, 14 years old, was feeding El Negrito and his sister Princessa.

El Rubia, She was lovely but naturally became aggressive after bearing her 6 puppies.
In Tatouan, Aurel and I enjoyed the company of Josefina and Gabriel.

Josefina, I do miss her.

After the lovely few days at Josefine's, we hit the road eastwards, eating the miles along the Mediterranean sea.

Penetrating the Rif mountains, rising higher than the sea and watching it from above.

Josefine's delicious meals are over and it's again the time of developing my cooking skills. Well, I tended to be creative ^_^

Bibi was wishing for a washing session but this time was not the case.

She is living a whole different lifestyle but which is at least her own.

Our following stop was in village where life was moving in a different rhythm from its surrounding. There we met some amazing people. There were not from the area but who made it their pilgrimage.

With them, we drunk tea, ate biscuits and played music.

Meditatively preparing his weed.

Does the boat prefer the warmth of the ground and the company of the tree or is it just old enough to go on the sea?

Well, it seemed an easy hiking in the beginning!!!

Aurel made it to the top of the rocks.
It was not a crazy cliff jumping, after all.
The kids of the village playing soccer.

A lonely heart.

Le Grand Bleu.

Doing the necessary shopping before going the road again.

Here we stopped to buy some cheap ice cream. Though, it was delicious.
Suddenly, we found ourselves driving on a trail. We thought it was short and we would reach the tarred road soon. Following our illusions, we end up driving 15miles/h for the whole afternoon to cross 60 miles.
The moon rose while we were still hoping to find an escape to the highway. But the no escape offered us a lighting night under a glowing moon.
Seeing the Algerian flags behind the Moroccan-Algerian frontiers, was a sign of moving southward.
Following the south, took us away from the big blue; the Mediterranean.
Few days later we headed west pursuing the Atlantic ocean's smell.

On the road leading west, we stopped at Taza to camp some few days.

The Tazian sky.
Society has found its way even in remote lands.

What might be more beautiful in the world of nonhuman than the freedom of a creature!

Was Aurel doing his daily exercises or posing for the picture ?

I think I was going for a walk in the wood to enjoy the silence or maybe to find a toilet.

To break the night darkness and to get some warmth, we made a big candle. Just for us :-)
Eventually, it did warm us up.

He blew at the candle and has almost flown it off.

The eastern part of Morocco seemed to enjoy its continental weather. We also enjoyed it but not for so long.
Far from Atlantic ocean and Mediterranean sea, we found a new swimming pool: a water reservoir in the west of fez.

Drought was the place's historian.

A stop was privileged to admire that natural painting.

And I took the position of the painter and I interpolated myself in the painting.

Bibi's window turned to be a useful mirror.

Meditatively, I lost my soul.

Sweetly crucified by his thoughts.

And the trip ended as the day has gone.
Back to big city life.

Still Standing Since 12 Centuries

2008-10-05T10:11:00.000-07:00

Summer was one month old and Rabat was advising me to go away, but circumstances exaggerated the trip to be short and just around here. Still it was a precious occasion to get cured from the breathless moments of hard work for my graduation.

I took the bus to cross 200Kms to a very familiar place; a 12 century old city, Fez

The old part of Fez from above;
The Medina of Fez is the most complete medieval city still in existence

The vast Muslim cemetery; a huge number of gathering graves

Bombing weapons witnessing the hectic history of Fez

I started wandering in the Medina's small and narrow alleys.

Some of them were so dark and gloomy that light had to be turned on day and night.

Since century, life in Medina continues to bustle with a bewildering throng of people, from olive-dealers, handicrafts and artisans to industrious merchants and traditional bell-ringing water-sellers.
The traditional and the most useful means of transportation and carrying good in the alleys of the Medina is still carefully preserved. ( Poor Sweet Donkey).
The old big carpet house is the storehouse of a large number of very colorful carpets of different style and made of traditional techniques.
I couldn't miss watching men working in the tannery. They the leather in the tanning and dying vats. The smell was quite strong was results were amazing.
In the tannery, all animal's wool was useful and the skin didn't go as a wasted. Skins were used for other uses.
From an alley to another, I came across the biggest mosque in fez and the twine of the Kairouan; the most important mosque in Tunisia.
Curious to visit inside, I had to wear a long black Djellaba. As it is forbidden to step inside with usual non-religious dress.

Another dark alley, but with a curious mind in the end of it.

Once the night wake up, The doors of Fez's Medina start shining.Oh yeah! the horse in doing good...

Fez main street enjoying the night.
The Fezi sky. In Fez, I could be a mother for 2 long hours. How sweet!!!

Being in Fez area, I couldn't skip going to the farm.
Mssoud welcomed me a very nice cheering face.
He finds the hand tasty.
I was just trying to figure out is the rabbits sleep really with open eyes, but the rabbit was damn scared :(

Mssoud and his mom Fatiha
I never knew that I was good at milking cows!

After satisfying my crow milk hungry, I took the road back home.

Essaouira : Gnaoua and world music festival; june 2008

2008-07-01T06:09:00.000-07:00

Essaouira, the city of winds, called us for another musical date of 4 days of rythems; for the Gnaoua and world music festival.

Essaouira, a gorgeous coastal cities, is always the generous breast for the sea gulls.

So long, Essaouira!!! Since last January.

The fishing port of Essaouira; the harbor of the fishing ships and boats.

Blue fishing boats wearing the color of Essaouira.

The meeting of the fishing ships and boats under the Mogador sky.

The fish market where different fresh fish are sold; Tune, Swordfish, Rays, Anchovy, Sardines...

...And from the fish market I bought my fish...

Through The Medina Squere, I headed to a restaurant where they fry fish.

While waiting for my fish, I enjoyed playing with a cat from Essaouira and to which I gave the name "Mich-Mich" and with which shared my meal.
I love you Mich-Mich but I probably will never see you again.

The cats of Esaouira are having a nap.

In Essaouira, there are also camels not only cats.

The Gnaoua and World Music Festival lasted for 4 days,offering great moments of music, rythems and melodies, we just spent out time, sunbathing in the morning and start dancing from the afternoon to the dawn, we didn't know what sleep was like in those days. the festival.

Great artists came, different styles of music were preformed, we enjoyed all the Gnaoua nights and the world music concert.

There was also one of the my favorite singer : KY-MANI MARLEY, the son of BOB MARLEY. He preformed very well. The winds of Essaouira decided that I met him, we had a nice conversation and took some pictures. Thus everybody around there wanted to take a picture. He is an amazing guy.

When we first stopped at this place it was empty, just before taking the first picture, flux of poeple were coming from everywhere, everybody wanted to see Kymani Marley, to take picture with Kymani Marley. There were too many voices, too many folk talking, too many cameras flashing but he kept smiling.
The Atlantic Ocean caressing Essaouira.

Essaouira, you are so beautiful.

Mogador! See you soon !!!

Chefchaouen The Blue Heaven : 3rd week of April.

2008-05-29T08:05:00.000-07:00

In spring 2008, the destiny finally decided for me to put the foot in Chefchaouen ; this laid back and pretty place which make you believe that the paradise is blue.

The Blue Heaven.

The streets in the small old medina have been painted glorious shades of blue which contrasts wonderfully with the mountain backdrop.

Chefchaouen a typical example of the blue Andalusian architecture.

After strolling past the blue street and the colorful shops we go to a nice restaurant in the town square in front of the Kasbah; where we watch people walking, observe the Chaoueni life and drink our "Moroccan whiskey... mint tea".

We didn't miss visiting the museum of the Kasbah where some aspects of the Moroccan history are expressed.

Hiking the Rif Mountains and standing on the top of a holy mount, Chefchaouen appears a peaceful dove sitting in a green nest.

The Kasbash in the midst of Chefchaouen surrounded by a set of gathering houses.

The easiest part of our trailer to the peak.
The sunset behind the Rif mountains.

Chefchaouen is calling : 2nd week of May

2008-05-22T13:12:00.000-07:00

Since I left Chefchaouen, 3 weeks ago, it didn't stop calling and I found myself taking the road again to be there.

Chefchaouen! Here I am back.

Running away from the city life to encounter nature.
The more I hike mountains the more I feel how beautiful they are and how powerful their existence is.

Today is my day and my mountain is waiting.

From the top of the mountain, you can't see the mountain.

Hiking and following the watercourse to wherever it is taking us.

Terrified... mortified... petrified... stupefied... sheep.

After an hour of hiking we finally find this small waterfall.

Beauty has got an image.

Back to the city life and to the daily consciousness.
Sitting, drinking tea and watching people walking.

And enjoying Moroccan music preformed in a very traditional way.

Taza : Begining of May

2008-05-21T11:49:00.000-07:00

So long, Taza! Since October 2007. Let's see how you changed from autumn to spring!
Taza is the place where the Rif Mountains encounter the Atlas Mountains, the city is nice but what is surrounding is definitely more beautiful.
Seeking to encounter elements of nature I hurry to villages.

Countryside of Taza in a spring day.

Big Boy and Hope are playing in the watercourse.

That's us: Me, Big Boy and Hope. I haven't seen them since October, I missed them
What are you looking for in my shoes?

A valley leading to village.
A house in the village.

A villager on his mule and with a smile on his face.

A trail leading to the top of the mountain.

The sunset behind the trees of the Village ; Admam.

Tetouan : Mid-April

2008-05-20T06:39:00.000-07:00

294 Km of night driving to watch the sunrise in Tetouan; a Mediterranean city situated in the midst of greenery.

Tetouan is waking up quietly under a misty dawn.

After a sleepless night a short nap on the grass seems useful.

A Spanish church in the heart of Tetouan.

The square Hassan II is where the old and the modern parts of Tetouan converge and on where the royal palace is opening its doors.

Tetouan seen from the top a hill.

Back to Tunisia : End of March in Tunis

2008-05-20T03:53:00.000-07:00

Back to Tunisia and to Tunis again. Within 5 years the city grew up a bit, some of its aspects changed some of its parts became more beautiful. but people remain alike, with same habits and same lifestyle. The trip to Tunisia wasn't just to go and see how Tunisia changed but to see how it changed in my eyes.

Although I love taking the road, driving to Tunisia would have taken ages.

Tunis!!! I'm back again.
A Tunisian street in a full of life moment.

Handicraft is part of the Tunisian art and traditions.

Here I am talking to a Tunisian eagle. He enjoys looking at me and chatting with me.

A big harbor where different kind of boats can be found.

Carthage a standing city since the old Romans existence in Tunisia.

The Tunisian city life.
Ibn Khaldun left the life but didn't leave the minds.

A standing clock in the middle of principal boulevard. Telling people time but making them conscious and in a hurry.
Tunis by night.

Watching the Atlas mountains from above while flying back home.

Caves of Hercules : 26-28 Feb in Tangier

2008-05-19T18:27:00.000-07:00

This time the road took me to Tangier; the door of Africa. Just 278KM from Rabat and you can stand in the place where the Mediterranean Sea merges with the Atlantic Ocean.

The Caves of Hercules, a natural door to the sea from the underground, tell about a legendary past which that Hercules used to reside in these caves.

The caves from inside.

The sea and its lovers.

Freedom is just another word of having nothing left to lose.

Skiing Trip and Visiting Volubilis: Febuary in Meknes, Moulay Drissi, Volubilis, Azrou, Michlifin and then Fez.

2008-05-18T09:36:00.000-07:00

My next destination is just 138Km from Rabat : Meknes ,an imperial city, from where I headed north to Moulay Driss; The Saint City where the grave of the Moroccan kingdom's founder (Drissi the 1st) is found.

Just 9 km from Meknes and I put my 1st step in this city.

Just 3km from Moulay Drissi, Volubilis lays with its aged rocks and still standing pillars.

Just walking around the remains of this city, stepping on its rocks, strolling in its alleys takes you centuries back in the history.

After a night sleep in Meknes It was time to think about going skiing
The next stop was Azrou. With its European kind houses, Azrou has its roots in the middle Atlas mountains.

The Atlas Berber Art.
In 30min of driving, snow started to appear. Less than an hours we arrived to this spot where everybody is trying to enjoy skiing, some were skilled, others were falling down every time they try to stand correctly.

Far away from being good at skiing, I play it safe :D

Hiking with the skiing shoes was hard but not impossible.Standing, smelling the snow feeds my desire to be in Alaska or Siberia.

After a nice long day of skiing we left the snow and let it melt quietly.I didn't miss the occasion of being not so far from my parents' farm to go there to enjoy the fresh smell of life over there and the sunset behind the holly mountain.

Surfing Trip : January in Essaouira, Taghazout, Agadir and Marrakech

2008-05-17T08:21:00.000-07:00

This January, the desire to go on a trip took me down south to go surfing in Taghazout; the surfing town and one of the best surfing spots in the country.

Heading south, stopping in Essaouira was necessary. It's always amazing to stop in a Essaouira to enjoy its everlasting rhythms.

Small houses, boats on the beach and big waves, that's Taghazout.

The waves are calling! Babe :D

Waves Riding !!! Oh nothing is better.

Watching the sunset before sleeping under the stars.

Going back home we had to go Marrakech to say a quick "hi"
A minute in Marrakech was enough to take us back again to the city life after some short days on the sea.

Caves Of Friouato : October in Taza

2008-05-13T11:58:00.000-07:00

While exploring the Moroccan nature and its elements. The second biggest cave is Africa; Cave of Friouato shouldn't be skipped. The desire to see how the cave of Friouato is like, how enormous and impressive it is, drove me to Taza; an easter city.

Taza; the place where the Rif mountains converge the Atlas mountains. Taza is a nice city but the cave sounded more exciting.

Just the look at the entrance of the cave of Friouato gives the impression of how enormous it is.
the cave Friouato is a dark house with one window.
There are 520 steps down to the bottom. All nice safe concrete ones, and some with handrail. Each step is about 37 cm.
The cave continues, going from one large chamber to another. Each one is profusely decorated with enormous stalagmites and stalactites.
We enjoyed stepping on the muddy soil and watching the naturally decorated inside.
Nature has got thousands faces.
The magic walls.
The impressive roof.
The glowing rocks.
Great going down but tiring coming up!
Stepping out of a magic experience of walking for 2 hours on muddy soil and uneasy trail, the Atlas mountains welcomed me to light with a shinny smile.
The place where the Atlas mountains converge the Rif mountains.
Standing there and watching the laying Rif mountains behind the atlas ones.
Our hiking and comping spot.Our camping fire.
Apple pie is a good dinner when being in the heart of nature.Hope is waking up quietly and enjoying the fresh smell of life in a soft morning.
From hiking to biking.
This was my companion for 40 Km from the mountains to the center to Taza. The road we biked to Taza and which is 40 km.
We didn't miss to stop and watch Taza from above.
The medina of Taza and its streets enjoying the silence of the night.

Absolute Freedom On A Road That Leads South

2008-05-09T13:23:00.000-07:00

Heading to West Africa and willing to know more about Morocco, to learn more about it, to explore it, we hit the road along the Atlantic Ocean, traversing all the Western Sahara.

In south of Agadir, few hundred kilometers before steping in the Western Sahara, we came across a camel herd . Each camel had a name and this one was called Timbuktu. And as we were heading down south to Timbuktu in northern Mali. We considered this moment as a positive sign from life.

Tan-Tan, the door of Sahara, welcomes its visiters in a unique way: two camel statues in its entrance.

Just in the middle of nowhere, out of Tantan, we found a Korean restaurant.

Restaurant Korea House.

Tan-Tan Beach ending a summer day.
After one night in Tan-Tan, we kept heading south. All we could see is the long road under, the yellow desert around and the blue sky above.
Crossing 318 Km and passing by Terfaya, we reached Laayoune; the reddish orange city.
We spent a morning long talking about the history of Western Sahara and Laayoune with the priet of this church from th Spanish presence in Morocco.

Mr. José, we enjoyed a lot talking to him and hearing from him specially that all his words were in Spanish.

We left Laayoune to enjoy a huge fish dish in Boujdour whose beach is just as vast as imagination might be.

Just 343 Km from Dakhla but 1740 Km from Dakar, we keep our aim in the head and the wheels on the road.

Still on the road enjoying the flickering yellow ground that encounters the sky.

Here we are driving our last 40 km to Dakhla; a presque-isle, our last city stop before leaving Morocco.

When the desert sand and the beach sand caress each other.

Another beautiful face of Dakhla.

The desert is behind and the ocean is ahead.

In the enterance of Dakhla, the last taxies station from where people go to Mauritania.

On our way to Mauritania, Any try to step out of the road would have been destroying.
Unspoted mines in hundred miles of the Werstern Saharian land.

The journey through Western Sahara ends and we cross the borders to step in another world.

After crossing 1 110Km along the Atlantic coast of the Western Sahara, we kept being on the road and heading down south.

Here we are in the kingdom of sand where the ground doesn't mean anything but sand.